Tag: organicplantcare

Everything You Need To Know About Air Plants (Tillandsia)

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HISTORY

The serene pale green specimen with curling tendrils in all directions, that of which survive with no soil or growing medium whatsoever, never seize to astound our first-time air plant customers.

Scientifically referred to as tillandsia, air plants are surreal specimen that originate from the forests, mountains and deserts of Mexico, all the way to the southeastern region of the United States.

The roots of these peculiar specimen do not work to feed the plant, but rather serve as an anchor to latch onto other parts of nature like tree stumps and branches. The plants actually gather their main source of nutrients through the air, absorbing elements such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus into their furry foliage.

These fun little creatures have been around longer than we have, but they have just recently begun gaining popularity in the houseplant industry in the past few years.

CARE REGIMEN

Given the title “air plant,” it is a common misconception that air is the only element these organisms need to survive. However, while tillandsia are extremely low maintenance, they do require a bit more than just the oxygen surrounding them.

Watering

One of the most important factors of air plant care is moisture levels. Because air plants originate from humid, high temperature atmospheres, it is essential that you try to replicate this environment to keep your plant happy and healthy. If your home is not very humid, you can mimic this factor through misting your air plant once a week. Here at Explorganics, we also recommend giving your air plant a good soak about every two to three weeks in a bowl of water for about 20 minutes at a time.

It is important that following your air plant’s soaking, that you leave the plant upside down to completely dry out as a means of avoiding mildew, mold and rot of your plant.

Light

Another important factor is light. Like your typical house plants, air plants require photosynthesis to survive. It is recommended that you place your plant in an area that gets a bright but indirect sunlight.

Air Circulation

In addition to light, air flow is essential to incorporate into your air plant care regimen. Hence their name, air plants thrive when given ample air movement, so somewhere with a lot of traffic in your home such as a kitchen would be an ideal spot!

The last tip in caring for your air plant is the element of fertilization. As mentioned earlier, air plants require the specific nutrients of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in order to sustain their livelihood. Here at the shop, we feed our air plants monthly with our 100% urea free, all organic Air Plant Food. In the wild, the plants can get these nutrients from the air and rainfall, but to maintain such growth indoors, we recommend the organic mist.

OUR FAVORITE TILLANDSIA

While there are over 500 species of Tillandsia, at Explorganics we have a few that really have our hearts when it comes to décor and beauty.

Our number one favorite air plant right now is Spanish Moss. Also known as Tillandsia Usneoides, Spanish Moss is neither from Spain, nor is it actually moss; it’s an air plant!

Cascading from the Cypress and Oak trees along the southern US, I’d always assumed that the Spanish Moss was a part of the tree—just simply a different type of foliage. Little did I know, the moss was its own organism completely, and that it was a member of the air plant family!

Next in line on our list of favorites is T. Xerogrpahica—these big curly babies have been referred to as the queen of the air plants. Coming in a variety of sizes from little two-inch babies, to as large as three feet in diameter, Xerogrpahica is perfect to fill any empty space with a beautiful green bloom of color.

While these are some of our favorites, the shop gets in a new stock of air plants on a weekly basis that range in size, texture and color! Come stop by the shop to check out our broad selection of air plants and start your own collection.

Written by Caroline Streett

Houseplant Pests & Treatment

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FIRST THINGS FIRST – if you believe your plant has pests, but are not sure which ones yet, put your plant in quarantine, do some research, then treat the plant until the infestation is gone before returning your plant back with your other plant babies.

Fungus Gnats

For those who know what a fungus gnat is, you know how GD annoying they can be. If you have houseplants, you may mistake these for fruit fly or regular old gnats, but more than likely, if they came out of now where and you haven’t had you doors and windows open, they are fungus gnats. 

Fungus gnats are tiny (annoying) gnats that look similar to a mosquito & fly around the base & soil of houseplants. They like moisture and high humidity, so houseplants that are overwatered or kept moist, like most tropical plants during the growing seasons, are prime real estate for fungus gnats. 

Adult fungus gnats live for about one week and can lay up to 300 eggs at once in moist, damp soil. They lay tiny yellow, fuzzy looking eggs that lay on the top of soil. The larvae buries into the soil and hatch with in 8-10 days and feed off the roots and other organic materials. The entire life cycle lasts about 3-4 weeks.

Fungus Gnat Treatment

How to tell if you have fungus gnats? Well, unfortunately, most people don’t know until they start to have the gnats flying in their face. BUT, sometimes, you can see the eggs on top of the soil. 

To help prevent your houseplants from getting fungus gnats, you should use a good quality houseplant soil. You can add a layer of horticulture sand to the top of your soil to keep fungus gnats from laying eggs in the soil. 

NATURAL + SAFE FUNGUS GNAT TREATMENTS:

  • Cinnamon – sprinkle ground cinnamon directly on top of the soil. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide and works well with any fungi infections, especially fungus gnats. 
  • Neem oil – this is a great treatment for almost all fungi and pest problems. mix 1 tsp of neem oil with 1/2 gallon of distilled water. Neem oil is an all natural pesticide that can be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant and soil. You can use our Leaf Care Spray monthly as preventative maintenance, or daily-weekly to treat infection. 


IF YOU’VE FOUND GNATS FLYING AROUND IN THE HOUSE ALREADY, HERE IS HOW TO GET RID OF THEM: 

  • Apple cider vinegar & mild dish soap – mix 1 part apple cider vinegar with a few drops of mild dish soap and shake it up. Put the mixture in a jar with about a 1” opening at the top and leave the lid off. Place the jar where you’ve been noticing the gnats and wait. This method works fast! In a few hours, you’ll find the gnats floating in the mixture! This is the method I use and it works wonders, the only down side is the apple cider vinegar smell, but if you keep it in a small enough jar, you won’t really notice it. 
  • Yellow sticky traps – place the sticky traps in the soil or near the infected plant and let the trap do it’s thing. Gnats are attracted to the color yellow, so they will fly towards the sticky trap and voilà, your gnat problem is solved! 
Aphids

Aphids are a common houseplant problem, so if your plants are infected, don’t worry. Aphids are tiny light yellow/white/green pests that suck the nutrients right out of the plant. They excrete honeydew, which causes the plant to become sticky, leading to an increased risk of developing sooty mold. They are so small you may miss them, but they are usually located in the petiole or stem. In my experience with aphids, they really like to feed off of flowers and I have found them bunched together at the stem of the plant.

Aphid Treatment

How to tell if you have aphids? Usually you’ll start to notice the leaves wilting/drooping. The leaves may feel sticky to the touch, this is due to the honeydew secretion. If you notice these issues I just mentioned, look closely at the stem and underside of the leaves. If you stare for a few seconds longer, you’ll start to see them crawling around. 

To remove aphids from a houseplant, you can simply give you plant a shower or spray with a gentle hose – the pressure of water usually knocks them off the plant. I have also used the tweezers/q-tip technique and removed them individually one by one from the plant, followed by a cool shower. From there, I suggest spraying the plant with neem oil to prevent further infestation. Most importantly, quarantine the plant so it’s by itself for a few days until the infestation is gone. 

NATURAL + SAFE APHID TREATMENTS:

  • Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) – mix together a 1 part isopropyl alcohol (70%) and 2 parts of distilled water. If you have a large infestation of aphids, you can spray the entire plant with the mixture. If you have a small infestation, you can apply full strength rubbing alcohol with a cotton ball or q-tip directly. Be careful not to spray the entire plant with full strength alcohol, as this can burn the plant. 
  • Neem oil – mix 1 tsp of neem oil with 1/2 gallon of distilled water. Neem oil is an all natural pesticide that can be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant and soil. You can use our Leaf Care Spray monthly as preventative maintenance, or daily-weekly to treat infection. 
  • PRO TIP: When mixing isopropyl alcohol or neem oil concoction, add a few drops of peppermint oil to the spray bottle. Almost all pests and insects hate peppermint oil, plus it gives a refreshing smell to the room =) something you’ll need now after dealing with gross creepy crawlers. 
Spider Mites

Okay, this one I hate to talk about becaaaaaause, I. Hate. Spiders. but these guys are a common houseplant problem too, so again, don’t stress out too much if you find spider mites. It is easy to tell if you have spider mites, you will see small webs with tiny dark/red dots (spider mites) either at the base of the stem or between the leaves. These guys feed only on plants, so they will not spread anywhere else in the house. They suck the chlorophyll out of the plant causing small brown spots on the leaves. If you catch the mites soon enough, you should be able to save the plant, but if the problem goes on for awhile, you may not notice them until they have taken over and sucked all the chlorophyll from the plant, eventually killing it.

Spider Mites Treatment

How to tell if you have spider mites? You will find webbing on the underside of the leaves and between the stems. Most of the webbing is clear/white in color and can be seen the best with a flash light. Check the leaves for yellow or brown dots. If the infestation has gone on for a few weeks, the mites will cause the plant to die – causing brown/yellow dying leaves. 

To get rid of spider mites, you can simply give your plant a shower or spray with a gentle hose – the pressure of water usually knocks them off the plant. You want to make sure you remove all webs too. Wipe the leave down one by one, using one of the treatment methods below. Quarantine the plant so it’s by itself for a few days until the infestation is gone. 

NATURAL + SAFE SPIDER MITE TREATMENTS:

  • Neem oil – mix 1 tsp of neem oil with 1/2 gallon of distilled water. Neem oil is an all natural pesticide that can be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant and soil. You can use our Leaf Care Spray monthly as preventative maintenance, or daily-weekly to treat infection. 
  • Soap & water mixture – mix 1/2 gallon of distilled water with 1 tsp of soap. Wipe down the leaves front and back with the soapy water. Follow with showering the plant to rinse off any soapy residue. Check the plant daily and wipe the leaves down to ensure there are no more spider mites. After a week, if you do not see any more webs or new brown spots on the leaves, then you can go back to regular maintenance. 
  • Peppermint oil – mix 1 cup of water with 3-4 drops of peppermint oil together and spray the entire plant. Like I mentioned above, spider and spider mites hate peppermint oil so this will not only help get rid of the mites but it will act as preventative maintenance.
Scale

Soft scale is a brown round pests that looks like a bump on the leaves and stems. If a houseplant is heavily infested, it should be discarded (sorry, babe). Scale sucks the nutrients out of the leaves and stems causing the leaves to wilt and turn brown. Just like Aphids, you may notice some sticky residue on the leaves.

Scale Treatment

How to tell if you have scale? Scale can be really hard to diagnose sometimes, especially if it’s on a cactus because it looks just like scaring. Scale is a flat oval shaped pest that is brown in color and does not move fast at all, so that’s why it can look like a scar at first.

To get rid of scale, grab your tweezers and neem oil. My personal experience with scale, the tweezer/toothpick method worked the best. I laid down a paper towel and picked off each scale one by one until I did not see anymore, then sprayed the entire plant with a neem oil mix. 

NATURAL + SAFE SCALE TREATMENTS:

  • Neem oil – mix 1 tsp of neem oil with 1/2 gallon of distilled water. Neem oil is an all natural pesticide that can be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant and soil. You can use our Leaf Care Spray monthly as preventative maintenance, or daily-weekly to treat infection. 
  •  Tweezers/toothpick – After you wipe the leaves, you may notice the scale is still stuck on the stem/leaves. You can use a toothpick or tweezers to pick off the scale. Make sure you cover the soil up with something, like a paper towel so the scale does not fall into the soil when removing. 
  • Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) – mix together a 1 part isopropyl alcohol (70%) and 2 parts of distilled water. If you have a large infestation of scale, you can spray the entire plant with the mixture. If you have a small infestation, you can apply full strength rubbing alcohol with a cotton ball or q-tip directly. Be careful not to spray the entire plant with full strength alcohol, as this can burn the plant.
Thrips

And last but certainly not least, thrips. Probably the most persistent of the bunch that if left untreated can cause the fastest damage to your plants. They suck the sap out of the leaves of your houseplant and you can actually see the bite marks they have left! Since they like the sap of the leaves, you will most likely find them all over the underside of the leaves of your plant and even making home inside the new unfurled leaves!

Thrips Treatment

How to tell if you have thrips? Usually, you’ll start to notice the leaves wilting/drooping. You will even be able to tell some holes in your leaves in some cases! The leaves may feel sticky to the touch, this is due to the honeydew secretion. If you notice these issues I just mentioned, look closely at the stem and underside of the leaves. If you stare for a few seconds longer, you’ll start to see them crawling around. 
 
To remove thrips from a houseplant, you can simply give you plant a shower or spray with a gentle hose – the pressure of water usually knocks them off the plant. I have also used the tweezers/q-tip technique and removed them individually one by one from the plant, followed by a cool shower. From there, I suggest spraying the plant with neem oil or Leaf Care Spray to prevent further infestation. Most importantly, quarantine the plant so it’s by itself for a few days until the infestation is gone. 
 
NATURAL + SAFE THRIPS TREATMENTS:

  • Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) – mix together a 1 part isopropyl alcohol (70%) and 2 parts of distilled water. If you have a large infestation of thrips, you can spray the entire plant with the mixture. If you have a small infestation, you can apply full strength rubbing alcohol with a cotton ball or q-tip directly. Be careful not to spray the entire plant with full strength alcohol, as this can burn the plant. 
  • Neem oil – mix 1 tsp of neem oil with 1/2 gallon of distilled water. Neem oil is an all natural pesticide that can be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant and soil. You can use our Leaf Care Spray monthly as preventative maintenance, or daily-weekly to treat infection. 
  • PRO TIP: When mixing isopropyl alcohol or neem oil concoction, add a few drops of peppermint oil to the spray bottle. Almost all pests and insects hate peppermint oil, plus it gives a refreshing smell to the room =) something you’ll need now after dealing with gross creepy crawlers.

Once you’ve diagnosed the problem, follow the treatments and check your plant daily until the infestation is gone. If your plant seems to be happy and perky again, without any signs of pests, you can go back to your normal houseplant routine. 

If you have any further pest questions, please do not hesitate to reach out! Shoot me a message below & I will help diagnose your plant problem the best that I can.

Best of luck, plant friend! 

Photo Resources:

Fungus gnat photo: https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/fungus-gnat-control/
Spider mites photo: https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/spider-mite-control/
Scale photo: https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/scale/scale-indoors.aspx
Thrips photo: https://www.houseplantjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/IMG_7101-scaled.jpg

Top 3 Best Organic Potting Soils – OMRI Listed

shann reneeLeave a comment

There are many different types and brands of soil out there; trust me, I’ve been in your shoes – it’s overwhelming! I’ve been a plant mama for a few years now, and since my background is in environmental science, I had to know exactly what was in the soil I was buying. I wanted to make sure I wasn’t buying soil that was full of chemicals or additives, especially for my veggie garden. 

We all have grown up seeing Miracle-Gro everywhere and while it may be the cheapest soil and you may think its safe… IT’S NOT! Miracle-Gro is full of synthetic ingredients that can cause more harm than good. DO NOT USE ANYTHING MIRACLE-GRO! You may see some bags with ‘organic’ written on it, but sadly, not everything that claims to be organic really is organic. 

I wanted to know if the soil that claims to be “natural and organic” is really certified organic?

So, I did some research! It’s all about the labeling when you’re searching for ‘good’ soil. There are 2 important steps to shopping for healthy soil – #1 make sure you can read and understand the ingredient names and #2 make sure it says ‘Organic/Homemade’ or “OMRI listed” (you have look around because each brand has the label in different places on the bag). 

The Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) is a private, international nonprofit organization that determines whether or not a product qualifies as organic under the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP). This means it is certified organic and it is a trustworthy products!  

Below is a list of the top 3 organic indoor potting soil brand we recommend. 

BEST ORGANIC POTTING SOIL

click photo below to learn more & buy now

Tips for Bringing Your Plants Outside for Summer & How to Acclimate Them Properly

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Ahhh, the birds chirping and the sun shining, that steady warm weather is almost here! This means that when that constant warmer weather occurs, our tropical houseplants can soon enjoy the benefits of being outside for the season! 

What temperature is best to bring your houseplant outside?

The average houseplant likes a temperature of between 65-75 degrees. To be on the safe side, it is recommended that once it is constantly, at least 68 degrees at night, it is safe to bring your tropical houseplants outside for the summer! Yes, plants can tolerate as low as 50 degrees, but keep in mind that “tolerating” does not mean it is safe to place your plant outside in that temperature. And of course, anything lower than that can have detrimental effects on your plants. 

Watch out for the random temperature spikes too! Some days we have a random outlier, and it is a gorgeous 80 degrees, but falls back again that night/the following day. This is why is it recommended that when it is consistently at least 68 degrees at night and definitely during the day, it is time to bring your plant outside. 

The constant warmer temperature is important because if it was a warm outlier day and then we need to bring the plant back inside because it returned to cold, that moving around of the plant is not appreciated by your plant friend.

Plants love consistency. Some plant may even drop leaves because of the constant changing. For this reason, only move your plant outside when the warm weather is constant, and your plant can safely stay out there for the season. 

Now that you are bringing your plants outside, it is still important to monitor for pests.

Plants that are in soil, are like a little piece of Earth that we are taking home with us. That soil is its own little eco-system with healthy bacteria and the potential of being host to some unwanted critters. When we bring our plants outside to enjoy the benefits of sun, rainwater, humidity, and wind…the potential for critters to call it “home” also increases. Now, though some critters are inevitable (talking to you there, gnats), some we need to minimize their potential to call our plants “home” as they can cause damage (the dreaded T word, thrips).

So how do we do this? Well lucky for us, Explorganics owner Shannon, has figured out the perfect ratio of neem oil to beneficial essential oils, to help us not only prevent but treat pests using Explorganics Leaf Care Spray. Have this magic tool handy and make sure to clean your plant consistently to prevent/treat critters and you will have yourself a very happy plant friend! 

Once a plant goes outside, if it needs to come inside for whatever reason, keep separate from the rest of your indoor plants.

If a plant has been outside, when you bring it indoors, always keep separate from the rest of your plants as it has the potential of having pests. No matter if it was there for just an afternoon, it just takes a minute or so for a little critter to land and lay eggs. Some are hard to see so to be on the safe side, keep that plant separate. This is important because below you will find the acclimating schedule and it calls for your plant to be outside for a period of time for the first few days and then brought back inside. In this interchange, make sure to keep that plant in its own spot not close to the rest of your plant family just for precaution. 

How to properly acclimate your plants to being outside:

Acclimating is very important!! When acclimating your plant that have been inside all winter to the outside, it takes a little bit of work. The elements outside are drastically different to our indoors and it can shock the plant if just brought outside and left there for the season. For this reason, we suggest bringing your plants in towards the evening/night in the beginning. Watch out for signs of distress during the acclimating period. It can mean that your particular plant may need a little longer of an acclimating period so lessen the duration of being outside and increase in even smaller time frames.

Below is a guide on how to acclimate your plants for the first 7 days.

Day 1: Bring your plant outside during the morning/afternoon. When choosing a spot to place your plant outside, make sure it is a bright indirect light and no direct sun. Also make sure to choose your new spot indoors for the plant at night separate from the rest of your plants. Once you choose both spots, place your plant in those spots every day. This is so that the plant has consistency during an inconsistent time, because as stated earlier, plants don’t like to be moved around so much. Example: keep plant outside from 7:00am – 12:00pm

Day 2: The next morning, put it back outside at the same time and place it in the same spot that it was in. Increase its stay outside by and hour or so. Remember to bring it in again during the evening. Example: keep plant outside from 7:00am – 2:00pm

Day 3: The next morning, put it back outside at the same time and place it in the same spot that it was in. Increase its stay outside by and hour or so. Remember to bring it in again during the evening. Example: keep plant outside from 7:00am – 4:00pm

Day 4: The next morning, put it back outside at the same time and place it in the same spot that it was in. Increase its stay outside by and hour or so. Remember to bring it in again during the evening. Example: keep plant outside from 7:00am – 6:00pm

Day 5: The next morning, put it back outside at the same time and place it in the same spot that it was in. Increase its stay outside by and hour or so. Remember to bring it in again during the evening. Example: keep plant outside from 7:00am – 7:00pm

Day 6: The next morning, put it back outside at the same time and place it in the same spot that it was in. Increase its stay outside by and hour or so. Remember to bring it in again during the evening. Example: keep plant outside from 7:00am – 8:00pm

Day 7: Keep your plant outside and do not bring it back in at night. You have completed the acclimation period!! Congratulations!!

Keep in mind, once plants are outside, they will require substantially more water than when they were indoors. Therefore, make sure you check their watering needs much more frequently. It is highly recommended to invest in a moisture meter to guide you and give you more confidence in the new watering schedule. 

Make sure you’re monitoring the those very hot, dry days during the warmer months. 

Tropical plants love humidity and some need extra moisture during those super hot days. As always, let your plant tell you how it is doing. If you notice some crispy edges, or burn spots, you may have it in too much sun. It is always recommended for our tropical plants to have a handy mister with you during those hot days to provide much needed moisture to their leaves. If you have access to a hose, that works too!


How to care for plants once they’re outside:

Once your plants are outside the most important rule of thumb is to watch your plant for signs of what it needs. Plants are quite vocal with what they need.

  1. Checking their watering needs will be the most important!
  2. Check for signs of too much sun, or even too little sun. 
  3. Check for signs of distress being outside, and your plant simply not being happy. It is important to address that issue quickly! Only keep the plant outside if it is showing signs if flourishing. 
  4. Keep up with that Leaf Care Spray leaf cleaning, to avoid in the long run a resilient critter from calling your plant “home.” 


The spring/summer is the perfect time to fertilize your plant as it is their growing period! This being said, it is NOT recommended to fertilize your plant until after the acclimation period and once it has been outside for a good two/three weeks and it is thriving. If your plant is showing any sign of distress outside, to add fertilizer during this period can harm your plant.

Remember, the general guideline for fertilizing a plant is doing so only to a plant that is thriving and growing new leaves. It is also important to use a gentle organic fertilizer, as your plant has just gone through a change and using a strong chemical fertilizer can burn roots/plant. We highly recommend Joyful Dirt fertilizer! Most importantly they are organic, and safe for our children, pets, and Earth! *It is never recommended for us, our children or pets to eat plants, however, some plants are non-toxic and using non-toxic fertilizer helps keep the plant generally non-toxic.

So, there you have it! How to acclimate your indoor plant to become an outside plant for the spring/summer! An outdoor plant can have many benefits such as better lighting, access to the best water (rainwater!), humidity, and wind! I hope with this guide, you have a better understanding of just how to accomplish the task, but never forget you can always reach out if you have any further questions! 

Now, let’s enjoy that beautiful warm weather, with our human and plant friends alike!

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